The Gastronomic Geography of Death Rituals in Türkiye: A Conceptual Examination Through Mourning Tables
Chapter from the book:
Solunoğlu,
A.
(ed.)
2026.
TOURGASTREC II.
Synopsis
This study examines death rituals in Türkiye from a gastronomic geography perspective, addressing the regional diversity, cultural meanings, and social functions of mourning tables. Although death is a universal phenomenon, each society has developed its own mourning practices and food rituals. Türkiye's rich cultural mosaic, geographical diversity, and historical accumulations have led to distinct differentiations in mourning tables.
The study traces the historical process from Central Asian Turkic societies to the present day, highlighting how the tradition of funeral meals transformed with the adoption of Islam and the central importance of the halva-roasting practice in Anatolia. Halva is an indispensable element of Turkish mourning tables; it is believed that the aroma released during roasting reaches the soul of the deceased, and women roasting halva together embodies social solidarity. Türkiye's seven geographical regions display different characteristics in their funeral meals. In Southeast and Eastern Anatolia, meat-heavy funeral meals are common, while in Tunceli, the "opening of the mouth ceremony" and in Urfa, the tradition of distributing halva and salt to reconcile are prominent. In the Mediterranean and Aegean regions, olive oil-based dishes are served, and in Adana, a meal called "Kazma-kürek" is distributed at the funeral home. In Central Anatolia, pastries and katmer are served, while meat dishes are preferred in the Black Sea region. The Marmara Region, particularly Istanbul, stands out for its multicultural structure; the different mourning table traditions of Muslim, Greek Orthodox, Armenian, and Jewish communities are intertwined in this region.
Mourning tables serve multi-layered functions such as sharing grief, strengthening social solidarity, praying for the soul of the deceased, and reconstructing collective memory. In the modern era, these traditions are undergoing transformation with urbanization, migration, and globalization, yet they continue to exist as an important part of cultural identity.
